Floral honeysuckle and jasmine notes slowly rise from the glass followed by wafts of fresh cut green melon, peach and dried grass. The wine’s concentration is juxtaposed by weightlessness that together gently embrace the tongue. Still firm white peaches and Satsuma like citrus span a spectrum from fresh to marmalade. They are made complex by a whisper of anise-scented tarragon or chervil. Buried deep is a thin vein of lees aged sourdough and reduction. The sweetness suggested by the fruit is precisely balanced by the gently whisking acidity. The transition from fruity middle to dry, persistent finish is as seamless as the wandering thoughts of a daydream.
club | $22.10
CLUB CASE | $20.80 PER BOTTLE
dan berger's vintage experiences
2016 PROJECT M RIESLING "SCHLÜSSEL"
I first discovered that Oregon can produce great Riesling about thirty years ago and it has never failed me, although one sadness in any wine columnist’s life is the discovery of something great that is either not well distributed or next to impossible to get. This wine is close to both situations, but it is worth tracking down. There is a faint honey note that pervades the classic Rheingau aromatics, with floral notes peeking over the top, and a physical structure that left me breathless. Wine maker Jerry Murray worked 19 vintages on three continents and in five growing regions before finally deciding to make wine last year. Reading his bio indicates that he is a purist at heart, and this wine really shows it. The grapes come from the famed Corral Creek Vineyard that Chehalem has done so brilliantly with over the last 22 vintages.
…The angularity of this wine shows a lot of courage on the part of winemaker Jerry Murray, who says he goes for tension. Beyond the enormous aging potential for this bone-dry wine, you have numbers undeniably designed for the Riesling purist. 6.5 g/L of sugar, but balanced by an acid of 8.1 and a pH of 3.02!