How PROJECT M Transformed Our Flagship Pinot Noir: The Personify Story
The Challenge: Improving our Flagship Wine.
After four vintages of disappointment with our flagship wine, we made a bold decision that changed everything. Here's how we transformed our Personify Pinot Noir from a wine that defined our struggles into one that represents our excellence.
Although we produce fewer than 300 cases of our Personify Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, it is our largest production wine at PROJECT M. From the outset, we intended Personify to define our stylistic inclinations and embody the four virtues we strive for in our winemaking and business. It was the wine we thought would define PROJECT M.
The problem was that the 2016 through 2019 vintages never performed the way we had hoped. The critical acclaim was good. The market accepted the wines. But we felt that the Personify, the wine that would define us, had to be better. We set out to make it so.
Rethinking Our Approach to Blending Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
As artisan winemakers, we began where we start everything: by thinking deeply about our approach, what was working, and what wasn't. Our single vineyard Pinot Noirs were getting the reaction we wanted. We concluded that the winemaking was sound. Then we turned to our selection process.
We built our production around working with vineyards that have strong personalities, capable of delivering distinct and exceptional Oregon Pinot Noir. We then selected from those lots the barrels that would be used in several Willamette Valley Pinot Noirs; the Kairos series, as well as the single-vineyard and Personify Pinot Noirs. We didn't source fruit specifically for Personify. We wondered if Personify lacked focus, reflecting the conflict of the strong single-vineyard personalities.
Breaking Through: Finding Personify's Heart.
After conferring with several trusted colleagues, we decided that Personify needed a vineyard source that would serve as its foundation.
In 2022, we discovered a vineyard source that would serve as the core of Personify. We wanted a site that produced elegant, balanced Oregon Pinot Noir but didn't have a character that would be competitive. Since the wine would be designated as "Willamette Valley," we selected a vineyard that wasn't located in one of the sub-AVAs within the Willamette Valley, such as the Tualatin or Eola-Amity Hills. We would allocate each barrel of this wine to Personify. Then use small amounts of the lots sourced for single vineyard wines to "adorn" this base wine.
We also targeted a specific barrel profile for the wine. We wanted to showcase the dark, mysterious, murky aromatics of the oak from France's Never forest and selected a cooper that provided an understated impact to the wine.
We made no other changes. We managed our fermentations using the same criteria we always had. We pressed the same, settled the same, and aged them in barrels just like we had before. The only difference was intention: Personify was going to have a heart distinct from the other wines.
Critics take notice.
We immediately noticed changes in the reaction to the wine. Feedback from colleagues and tasters was encouraging. More definitive were the improved comments from reviewers.
Michael Alberty from the Wine Enthusiast gave it 94 points and had this to say about the 2022:
"While tasting the Personify, I wrote "wow" and "really, wow." This wine hits a chord with its perfume-worthy tart blackberry, lavender and powdery talc aromas. The Personify also has the rare combination of super-brisk acidity and sturdy tannins, which comes in handy when it comes to balancing the wine's concentrated blackberry and black tea flavors. Enjoy 2024–2037."
Early comments on the 2023 are just as encouraging. Jeremy Young of the International Wine Report gave it 95 points, saying:
"The 2023 Project M Personify Pinot Noir from the Willamette Valley is a beautifully expressive and impeccably balanced wine. Its radiant medium ruby core fades to a soft pink-tinged rim. The nose captivates with layers of wild black raspberry, dried violets, and crushed graphite, underscored by hints of bergamot and white pepper. On the palate, this Pinot Noir seamlessly combines racy acidity with firm yet refined tannins, creating a dynamic tension that enhances its depth. Juicy boysenberry and steeped black tea flavors unfold alongside a touch of forest floor and savory spice. The finish is long and structured, leaving lingering notes of dried herbs and crushed rock."
Our ceaseless commitment to Improvement
Although we are almost a decade into Project M, we remain committed to Kaizen, the Japanese philosophy of continuous Improvement. You can taste the transformation of this limited production wine by clicking below or becoming an Mbassador Wine Club member.